Yarn Counting Systems

The Yarn Count

The yarn count expresses the thickness of the yarn, and must be known before calculating the quantity of yarns for a known length of fabric. The yarn count number indicates the length of yarn in relation to the weight.

Three systems of yarn count are currently in use:

Fixed weight; the fixed length and the Tex systems. The foxed weight can be used with British and American weights and systems. The fixed length system and the Tex system are based on metric weights and measures.


1: The fixed weight system

This most popular system in the Textile Ind. Cotton Count (Ne) is used very widely.
The fixed weight yarn count system is used for numbering spun yarns of Cotton, Linen and Silk.

It is based on the length of the yarn per lb. weight.

The greater the length of the yarn weighing 1 lb., the finer it is, and the higher the count number.

The count number gives the number of unit lengths, I.E.: skeins, hanks, etc, in 1 lb.;.

E.g.: 10 hanks of cotton is abbreviated to 10’s cotton.

12 skeins Yorkshire woolen spun is abbreviated to 12’s Y.sk.

The unit length of 1’s count (i.e.: 1 unit count of 1 lb weight) varies with different fibres and spinning systems.

Wool:
Woolen spun:
Galashiels: cut (unit length) 200yards
(ie: 1’s wool has 200 yards per pound, 10’s has 2000 yards per lb., etc

Yorkshire : skein 256 yards

West of England: hank 320 yards
American (Philadelphia): cut 300 yards

Worsted Spun:
English and American hank 560 yards

Linen: lea 300 yards (ie: 1 lea linen has 300 yards, a 5 lea linen has 1500 yards)

Cotton: hank 840 yards

Spun Silk: hank 840 yards


Plied Yarns:


When a yarn is plied, that is, when two yarns of identical count are twisted together, the yarn is twice as thick, and therefore the length of yarn per lb is halved. The numbering of the yarn states both the count of the single component and the number of components that make up the ply.
E.g.: 2/10’s cotton; the length of this yarn would be 10 x 840 divided by 2 = 4200 yards per lb.

If the cotton yarn is plied, it is noted like this:

10/2 cotton. This means that 2 threads of #10 cotton singles spun at 8,400 yards/lb have been twisted together to give 4,200 yards/lb of 2 ply yarn.
The first number is the size of the singles yarn, the 2 gives the number of plies.
So... 10/4 cotton would be 4 threads of #10 cotton twisted together to give 2,100 yards/lb.

It can be seen from the table below that a 2/20 yarn varies greatly in length depending on whether it was measured as cotton, linen, wool, or worsted.

2/20’s cotton 8400 yds per lb 20s = 59 Tex
2/20’s linen 3000 yds per lb 20s linen = 166 Tex
2/20’s wool 2560 yds per lb 20s Wool = 195 Tex
2/20’s worsted 5600 yds per lb 20s Worsted = 89 Tex

NM :
NM stands for number of meters and is based on the number of meters in one gram of yarn. The NM designation would be noted either before or after a number indication the number of meters in 1 gram of yarn: NM 10 or 10 NM meaning there are 10 meters of yarn per gram. Plied yarn would be marked NM 2/10 with the first number indicating the number of plies and the second number giving the meters per gram.

Linen:

Flax fibers undergo a name change when they are spun and become linen. The unit of measurement for linen yarns is the lea and 300 yards per 1lb of fiber = 1 lea.

Linen Lea = Ne x 2.8 = (1661 / Tex) = (14,950 / Denier)

Silk:

In the English system, spun silk count is based on 840 yards per 1 lb of fiber.
#1 silk is 840 yards/lb
#2 silk is 1680 yards/lb
#3 silk is 2520 yards/lb
#10 silk is 8,400 yards/lb.
#20 silk is 16,800 yards/lb.

While the silk yarns may have multiple plies and skeins may be marked with the number of plies, the size number will always remain the same. So a #10 silk yarn will always have 8,400 yarns no matter how many plies went into making that yarn.

Calculating Cotton, Linen, and Silk Yarn Counts:

The formula for calculating the count of cotton, linen, and silk yarns is the same as those for woolens and worsteds:

Number of yards divided by weight times 16 oz (454 grams) times the number of plies divided by the FWS factor for the specific fiber equals Count.

The FWS factors are:
1. Cotton – 840
2. Linen – 300
3. Silk – 840



2. The fixed length system

This system in used to number continuous filament yarns, ie: reeled silk and man-made extruded yarns such as rayon.
It is based on a fixed yarn length to a variable weight and is measured in deniers.

The denier count of a yarn states the weight in grams per 9000 meters.

The coarser the yarn, the higher the denier count number becomes.

Thus: 9000 meters of 30 denier yarn weighs 30 grams.

Ne = 5,315 / Den

3. The Tex system.

Tex is an internationally agreed system of yarn numbering that applies to all types of yarns, regardless of the method of production. It is easy to understand and define, for commercial purpose other systems are more used than this.

The Tex system is also based on the fixed length system. i.e: Weight per unit length.

The Tex count represents the weight in grams per 1 kilometer (1000 meters) of yarn.

For example, a yarn numbered 10 Tex weighs 10 grams per kilometer.
20 Tex means weight of yarn is 20 Gms per Kilometer.

The Tex number increases with the size of the yarn - more the Tex thicker is the yarn.

For labeling yarns an international code is followed as below :

The yarn count number is followed by the word "Tex". The term "folded" is used in preference to "plied" yarn when two or more yarns are twisted together, and the direction of the twist is included in the formation.

E.g.: R 40 Tex/ 2 S – two threads of 20 Tex are folded in an "S" direction, therefore the resultant count (R) will be 40 Tex because the weight is exactly doubled.

This is unlike other systems where the count of child yarn is mentioned and not the final count.

To convert English Cotton Count to Tex

Ne = 590.5 / Tex

Denier :
This is most popular numbering system under Fixed Length Methods and used widely for most of the Man Made Filaments and Fibres.

Denier is a measurement that is used to identify the fiber thickness of individual threads or filaments used in the creation of cloth, carpeting drapery material, and similar products.

Yet surprisingly, the concept of denier was originally applied mainly to natural fibers, such as silk and cotton. Over time, the unit of thickness for synthetic fibers such as rayon and nylon also came to be identified as denier.

From definition it is clear that Denier is 9 times the Tex so conversion formulae are

Denier = Tex * 9

Ne = 5315 / Denier

Estimating the yarn count

When the yarn count is not known, it can be established by measuring a length of 10, 50, or 100 metres, depending on the count you judge the yarn to be. This is best done on a swift ( a skein winder) set to a circumference of 1 meter. The hank is then weighed in grams. Eg, if 50 meters of yarn weighs 2 grams, 1000 meters will weigh 40 grams and the count is therefore 40 Tex.

What Causes Fabric Pilling?

Fabric pilling is the formation of small, fuzzy balls on the surface of a fabric. It detracts from the appearance of the fabric, making it look old and worn, and it is often difficult to restore a garment with fabric pilling to its original condition. Certain types of fibers and weaves are more prone to fabric pilling than others, but it is often a normal part of wear and tear.

Short or loose fibers on the surface of a fabric tend to tangle together, leading to fabric pilling. Fuzzier fabrics, like angora, are particularly prone to fabric pilling, since they are characterized by plentiful loose fibers. In other textiles, fabric pilling occurs either due to the natural tendency of fibers to migrate to the surface of a woven fabric or as a result of friction on the fabric surface, which loosens fibers and tangles them. This friction may be a result of wear and tear, or of improper laundering techniques. Fabric pilling is more likely to occur in areas of the clothing that experience more friction, such as under the arms and on the sides of a sweater.

To avoid fabric pilling, choose smooth, sturdy, closely woven fabrics. Poor quality cotton is more likely to experience fabric pilling than high thread count cotton, for example. Some fabrics, like denim or spandex, are particularly resistant to fabric pilling.

In some fabrics, such as cotton, pills can fall off on their own, sometimes so soon after formation that they are hardly noticed. Other fabrics, however, have strong "anchor" fibers that keep the pills on the fabric surface. The only way to deal with fabric pilling once the pills are formed is to somehow remove them.

Fabric pilling can be prevented to some extent by proper clothes washing and care. Wash your garments inside out on a shorter wash cycle with gentle agitation and remove them from the dryer promptly. To remove fabric pills, stretch the fabric over a curved surface and carefully cut or shave off the pills.

Grams per Square Meter

Grams per Square Meter

The standard measurement for weight and quality of fabrics is grams per square meter,

in foreign countries. Corduroy Fabric typically vary from 270 to 400 GSM; other fabrics may have values as low as 70 GSM. The same units are used by paper industry. Some of the range of the fabric category are:

Cotton trousers : 260 to 320 GSM
Worsted Suiting : 180 to 240 GSM

Shirting : 100 to 140 GSM

Voils : 60 to 80 GSM


Most of the time merchandisers find it difficult to convert linear weight to GSM The weight of the fabric alone is not sufficient to calculate the GSM but we need to know the dimensions as well.

Finished fabric in India is either in 58” (148 cms) or 44” (112 cms) is offered by the processors. Let us take two examples of fabric weighing 10 Oz or 283.5 gms.
but with different dimensions, as follows:

Ex 1

Fabric A weighs 10 oz (283.5 grams) and measures 1.65 Mts in 58 inch width (1.65 by 1.48 meters).

Calculate the surface area by multiplying the length and width in meters: .

1.65 X 1.48 = 2.442 square meter.

Divide the weight in grams (283.5) by 2.442 and find that you have a

283.5 / 2.442 = 116 GSM Fabric — Suitable for shirting .


Ex 2

Fabric B also weighs 10 oz (283.5 grams) and measures 2.50 Mts in 44 inch width (2.50 by 1.12 meters).

Calculate the surface area by multiplying the length and width in meters: .

2.50 X 1.12 = 2.80 square meter.

Divide the weight in grams (283.5) by 2.80 and find that you have a

283.5 / 2.80 = 101 GSM Fabric — Suitable for Ladies Blouses, but light for the shirts.


As you can see from these examples, there is no direct conversion between GSM and Weight; the total weight of the fabric is actually the ratio of the GSM and the fabric’s dimensions.

NOTE: The surface area of a stitched garment would be harder to figure because of the various pieces and angles, so the GSM would be equally difficult to figure this way.

However if we know the consumption in making the garment and weight of the garment approximate weight can be guessed.

Ex 3 :

A trouser weighs 500 gms.

Weight of Accessories : Zippers, Stickers, Interlining Say, 35 Gms.

Approximate Weight of fabric = 500 -35 = 465 gms.
(for practical purposes this can be ignored as there will be some wastage of the fabric while cutting which compensates for this extra weight)

Consumption in making Trouser = 1.32 Mts.

Dimension of Fabric = 1.48 (Width of fabric) x 1.32 = 1.9536 Square Mt

GSM = 465 / 1.9536 = 238

So while planning you can target to get a fabric of 240 to 245 GSM.

THREAD COUNT

Over the last several years the focus on thread count has dominated the bedding marketplace.

Thread count refers to the number of threads, both vertical and horizontal, in a one-inch square of fabric. Thread count is affected by a number of factors, including ply and thickness of the threads used. The ply of the fabric refers to how many threads are wrapped together into a single thread. Single-ply fabrics use threads on their own, while two-ply fabrics twist two pieces together into a stronger thread, as well as doubling the thread count of the fabric.

Using finer threads also allows for more thread to fit in a square inch. Finer thread often results in smoother, softer fabrics, part of the reason high thread count fabrics are considered more desirable than fabrics with a low thread count. Finer thread also results in a more fragile fabric, however, which may not always be ideal. Two-ply fabrics help solve this problem somewhat by strengthening the threads and creating a more durable, though heavier, fabric.

While it has become common to shop for such things as bed linens based exclusively on thread count, it is important to take other considerations into account. How the cotton is treated can be a much more decisive factor in comfort and overall feel than the thread count of a fabric, as can the final finishing of the fabric.

The general wisdom is that a thread count of higher than 100 is desirable --these fabrics are known as percale -- with somewhere above 180 being ideal. While fabrics are available with thread counts up to 1000, anything in excess of 400 is considered by most to be simply extraneous. In the case of some fabrics, a high thread count is simply not a viable option. Flannel, for example, as a result of its other properties as a material, has consistently low thread counts, but this is in part what gives it its sought-after feel.

The most common products for which thread count is an issue are sheets, and more and more linen manufacturers sell their products largely on the basis of having a high thread count, as well as the inclusion of high-status materials such as Egyptian cotton. Other products are jumping into the thread count craze, however, with everything from dresses to men's shirts listing thread count on their packaging. A number of high-end clothing companies have begun offering men's shirts with thread counts as high as 170 or 180, boasting an almost silk-like feel.